I just pulled my mini trigger and invested in Padini Holdings Berhad (Padini), even though fashion is always as foreign to me as Swahili. Despite the fact that I can’t tell the difference between a pair of blue pants from a pair of purple ones (colour blind), I do understand some of the economics of the business. Starting from 06 Mar 2020, the share price of Padini plunged 40% from RM3.10 to RM1.84 mainly due to the worsening coronavirus crisis. As dangerous as it is, will this virus wipe out 40% of Padini’s value? Probably not.
The MCO has effectively locked down the entire country for one whole month, and it will probably be extended. With domestic sales accounting for 95% of Padini’s revenue, that’s a pretty painful hit in the nuts, especially when it has very negligible online sales channel to take advantage of the stay-at-home shopping spree. This coming quarterly earning will probably see a 60-80% drop while the outlets remain shut with other overheads running. Will this bring the company down to its knees? I think it will just be like the usual pain in the nuts – lasting just for a while without damaging one’s productivity.
I think it’s pointless to estimate how many months the Covid-19 crisis will last and how many months of potential revenue lost for Padini – my guess is as good as yours. However, I strongly believe that it will not last more than a year and therefore, I mainly consider 3 important aspects:
1. Do I understand Padini’s business model and the underlying economics?
2. Can Padini sustain the near-term impact (potentially net loss) and ride out the storm?
3. Is there a fundamental change in the economics of the business affecting Padini?
First of all, I’m a fan of Padini and I shop for most of my clothes at Brands Outlet. I know I can’t say I buy its share because I like to shop there without sounding like a bimbo, but the truth is I have a genuine perspective as a customer. It gives me the first instinctive smell.
Looking at its latest financials, Padini incurred an average of RM400mil selling and distribution expenses in a year, which I conservatively estimate 80% is fixed. Together with administrative cost of RM85mil, I put its overhead at RM405mil. Finance cost is negligible and it mainly relates to trade financing which will not be utilised when there is no purchase of goods. Now imagine all Padini’s outlets are closed for one whole fucking year while it’s still paying RM405mil of overhead on time. With a cash pile of RM586mil as of 31 Dec 2019, it should still have RM181mil left after one year of vacation for everyone in the company. In other words, with such a huge cash pile and 1% gearing, I’m confident that it can ride out the storm.
The biggest risk in my mind is the competition within the cut-throat world of fashion, especially from the booming e-commerce. A lot of retailers went extinct because their brick-and-mortar business model cannot compete with the low-cost e-commerce and the massive change in shopping habit. For Padini, its online sales is mainly done through its own website and collaboration with Zalora but the revenue is so insignificant that management can’t be bothered to even split out the revenue number in its annual report. This was openly admitted by the directors during the 2017 AGM. Forever 21 is the latest high-profile fashion retailer that collapsed due to the gruesome competition from both brick-and-mortar retailing and e-commerce. Perhaps I can try to draw some lessons from there.
E-Commerce
In my opinion, I’m not overly concerned by this. Padini’s market is generally the middle or mid-lower income group who emphasise value for money and to a certain extent, quality of the garments. E-commerce giants like Amazon and Alibaba are killing a lot of traditional retailers because they have cost advantage and shipping is becoming more and more affordable with the huge amount of resources invested in the development of logistics infrastructure specifically catering to it. It’s not unusual to see people visiting electronic stores to check out the design and quality of the products, then proceed to buy from Lazada at cheaper prices. For fashion, this is unlikely to happen because other online retailers will not carry the same products you see in the store and every piece of garment is rather unique. Furthermore, buying a piece of clothing item requires the right fitting and physical checking of the quality – even colour may look very different when shown online. A piece of dress may look stunning on photos but not on you and vice versa. The best place to find out is still the fitting rooms.
I don’t consider Padini being in the fast fashion market whereby the latest designs are quickly translated from the catwalks and there is an insatiable hunger for new stock. As the target audience is millennials with fast-changing tastes, the chances of getting everything right is relatively harder. Fast fashion is mainly booming through e-commerce as millennials are heavy users of the internet and they tend to buy trendy garments at rock bottom prices despite the low quality because they never expect themselves to keep wearing the same thing. The idea was to keep buying new clothes and look trendy even though their income is not bottomless. Forever 21 was riding on this market but with a brick-and-mortar expansion model, which transformed itself into a 300-pound gorilla – not easy to feed and manage. It effectively pitted itself against online retailers which do not need to fork out jaw-dropping rental on high street. That was one of its strategic failures which was very hard to reverse no matter what management talent it engaged. Warren Buffett once said, “When a management with a reputation for brilliance tackles a business with a reputation for poor fundamental economics, it is the reputation of the business that remains intact.”
About 10 years ago when I was still in the UK, I started to witness a paradigm shift in the retail industry whereby high street retailers were getting butchered and online retailers sounded sexier than ever. Zalora was founded in 2012 and quickly expanded in Malaysia and became a poster child for the local online fashion industry. Did it affect Padini in anyway? I don’t know, but I do know that Padini’s sales has continuously increased from RM726mil in 2012 to RM1.8bil in 2019, without a single year of decline.
Expansion
Forever 21 went from 7 countries to 47 in less than 6 years and at one point operate over 700 stores across the Americas, Asia, the Middle East and the UK. At the same time, it was pitting itself against well capitalised giants like H&M and Zara in their home turfs. Such an aggressive growth pushed their sales to $4.4bil in 2015, but the house of cards quickly tumbled after that. This reminds me very much of WeWork which also collapsed under the weight of its physical expansion that often defied business common sense.
Padini has gone the other way round by cutting its store and counter number by half from 281 in FY2014 to 141 in FY2019. This mainly involved cutting down its consignment counters for Seed, Miki and Padini, and moving to standalone Brands Outlet and Padini Concept Stores. I guess the strategy is successful with the growing sales and profit over the years. Right now, it still generates over 95% sales from domestic market and most of its overseas businesses (40 outlets) are managed by licensees and dealers. That means it’s pretty much free from the capital commitment and operational risks in these countries. The only stores operated directly by Padini are those in Thailand and Cambodia. I think their overall expansion is pretty modest and Cambodia does offer a growing middle class which should be its target market. I’d be far more doubtful if the locations chosen are London, New York or Hong Kong which usually attract enormous glamour for the CEO at the expense of shareholders.
Debt
What attracts me is the conservative use of debt by Padini. As of Dec 2019, the gearing ratio was a negligible 1% (2018: 3%). Its debt is usually short-term banker’s acceptance credit which usually gets settled quickly, a common practice in the purchase of goods. For example in FY19, 90% of its short term borrowings consists of banker’s acceptance (FY18: 89%). The corresponding cashflow statement shows RM137mil of short-term borrowing drawdown against RM148mil settlement within the same year, which is in line with my understanding. All the other long term borrowings are negligible especially against the backdrop of RM586mil cash pile sitting in the bank account. The 2QFY20 financial shows an increase of lease liabilities of RM496mil but I’m not too concerned as this was due to the adoption of MFRS16 in relation to lease, which doesn’t affect the nature of the business at all.
Management
I don’t know much about the management except the fact that the board mainly consists of family members. The founder generally has impressive track record for steering the company over the past few decades but I’m not sure about any professionals he has brought in to sustain the business – none of this is disclosed in the annual reports except directors’ profile. I don’t believe a company of this size can just rely on family members who carry the founder’s genes. By going through the AGM’s Q&A, I have a feeling that the board is rather reserved and not very open or articulate when it comes to addressing shareholders’ concern. One of the shareholders asked whether the management has gained any insights from the failure of fashion retailers such as Top Shop and Forever 21. One of the directors answered by saying that management was aware and will learn from those mistake, full stop. This kind of answer somehow shows you are either not aware of what’s happening in the market or you don’t know where does your company stand.
I’m a bit disappointed that management doesn’t have any plan for share buyback according to its intention stated in the AGM. When the share price falls way below its intrinsic value, share buyback will be one of the best way to reward shareholders. Now could be the time.
***
Right now, the share price at RM2.13 should be pricing in about 25% drop in sales for FY20 according to my own estimation backed by certain assumptions. If sales drops further there might be another round of sell off – good buying opportunity as long as the long-term business prospect is intact. The overall financials look healthy and the margins do not run very far from global giants like Inditex (Zara, Massimo Dutti, Bershka) and Fast Retailing (Uniqlo). It’s also encouraging to see consistent return on equity in excess of 20% over the past 5 years and this is done without loading huge debt on the balance sheet. Based on its cash generating power after factoring inventory loss and capex, I’m expecting a 35-40% margin of safety. I’m not looking to be 100% accurate on this because I don’t believe anyone can be. What’s more important is to avoid being precisely wrong.
p/s: EPF has been busy acquiring over 4 million shares of Padini since 10 Mar 2020. Though minuscule compared to its asset of RM1 trillion, it’s still comforting.